2021 Barkley Fall Classic Race Report - Monsoons & Mudslides

Meeting the evil genius himself

PREFACE/BACKGROUND

For those of you not familiar with The Barkley Marathons I recommend checking out the documentary "The Barkley Marathons - The Race That Eats Its Young" or reading the book "Tales From Out There". It involves five loops in the wilderness of Frozen Head National Park in Tennessee, mostly off trail and parts through thick briars. The course changes every year, you're not allowed GPS, and the length and elevation of each loop is unknown but generally between 20-30 miles and 15-20,000ft elevation. Runners have 60 hours to complete 5 loops and since inception in 1986 only 17 have finished. It's the brain child of Lazarus Lake, evil genius/sadist, who later created the Barkley Fall Classic to give us pedestrians a sample of what Barkley is all about.

There's a few rules that will make this report a bit more vague other than talking about the key landmarks of the course that are common knowledge - I can't post a map, can't give out specifics about the route, and no gps so any talk of mileage or elevation is a best estimate based on what other runners have said and my own piecing together the distances on the trail map. Violation of these rules results in a ban - which at this point could be also thought of as an intervention.

LEADUP

I wasn't even sure I was going to run the Barkley Fall Classic. I'd just finished the Twisted Branch 100k a month prior and and had blown up on all my long runs since then. More likely than not it was just my body bouncing back but it still had me concerned. Brenda was already entered in the BFC so my original plan was to tag along and cheer her on while getting a taste of what Barkley was all about. The Barkley Marathons is one race I follow every year and am amazed by; to get to experience and see the terrain was going to be a highlight for me. I also wasn't able to get the day before the race off from work so that also made travel from Massachusetts impossible to have a real chance of running the race.

Then a funny thing happened. The Friday before the race freed up for a vacation day, the waitlist dwindled to next to nothing, one thing lead to another, and I was entered two weeks out. Despite the blow ups on long runs I knew I was physically in shape, mentally I don't get intimidated by the distance any more, the heat was a concern since there wouldn't be much help at aide stations, but mostly I was excited to get to run Rat Jaw, Testicle Spectacle and other sections of the course I had been hearing about for years. I'm always searching for the next challenge and with an estimate of 35-40 miles and 12,000-13,000 feet of tough elevation this would definitely qualify.

In the past I'd always tried to have an easy day before a race so to rest and focus but that has kind of gone out the window this past year. What I've learned is that really all I need to do is show up, be prepared, and have faith that I'll figure it out. This was no different as the day before involved a 3am wakeup to get to the airport on time about 2 hours away, waiting in line for an hour for my rental car, another 2 plus hour drive from Nashville to Wartburg, packet pickup (meeting Laz was a true highlight), shopping for extra nutrition, and finally relaxing around 6pm with chicken nuggets, steamed broccoli, and a map that I had to figure out how to decipher (we don't get the course map until packet pickup the day before).

The layout and description was a bit confusing and overwhelming at first. Eventually, though, I figured it out and was able to break it up into sections in my head as well as communicate that to Brenda (hoping that I was actually right). In general I never think of a race in miles or time, it's always sections. Know the sections and have an overall plan, but just focus on the section you're in while you're running and then move onto the next one.

My official Barkley timepiece - no GPS allowed

Double checking my gear and the route I felt pretty confident I understood the order of everything and knowing I wouldn't be in the lead pack there's usually a path to follow on the off trail sections (which hopefully they didn't make a mistake on). I was mainly concerned about what to carry as I didn't expect aide stations to be stocked with much beyond water and having enough calories to avoid bonking would be critical. After watching a movie to decompress, Brenda and I settled into bed a little past 8 in hopes of getting a good nights sleep for the adventure that awaited us.

RACE DAY

I was very pleased to wake up after a good nights sleep feeling rested and ready. We got to Frozen Head about an hour before the start and began packing cliff bars, peanut butter, nutella packets, and various other supplies into our vests including gardening gloves for the two trips up Rat Jaw we knew awaited us. There was of course a last minute change to the course that added some additional bonus miles and I did my best to explain what I figured out on the map, after giving the disclaimer that I was a Barkley virgin, to a few nearby runners who had just picked it up or were still confused. I felt calm and confident, pretty much ready for whatever was to come and excited to share my Barkley experience with the person I loved adventuring with the most.

Brenda & I at the start

There's just no way to gauge how you're gonna feel on race day until you start... and even then everything can change quickly. On this day I felt pretty good once I started moving; some residual soreness but my legs felt fresh which was encouraging. Generally I usually try to start conservatively and work my way up as my body warms up but I pushed it a bit at the start so that I wouldn't get caught in a conga line behind slower runners as we started the climbs. It wasn't long before we reached the famed yellow gate which I had to take an extra moment to tap before continuing on.

Without my gps watch or phone I actually found myself enjoying the journey more as I didn't have to concern myself with distance or pace. I engaged other runners and had more conversations than any previous race. This helped keep the first couple sections fun as we made our way up and down climbs and past aide stations. Most of them while challenging in sections were pretty runnable but I held back and hiked at any point I felt my body strain to where it felt taxed so as to conserve energy. I've gotten pretty good at maintaining a consistent effort so it amuses me a great deal when I see runners blow past me only to then cruise right by them a few miles later when the elevation catches up to them. These miles were just tough enough to take some of the juice out of our legs before our first journey up the infamous Rat Jaw.

A simple white sign with an arrow pointed us off a jeep road and onto an uphill climb covered in briars. It took a moment to see exactly where to go but there was a path laid down by previous runners (I was around 30-35th out of a little over 400 starters at this point) and unless I wanted to hack through the briars to blaze a new trail, the best move was to simply follow in the footsteps of those before me. I learned pretty quick what I was in for as it was steep to the point I had to go hand over hand using an old line to pull myself up certain sections and there were also portions I had to get down and crawl on all fours under the briars because it was impossible to go through them without getting torn to shreds. Even with that I was still taking a beating on anything with exposed skin (legs, arms etc). That being said I was also making up ground.

Brenda crawling under the briars

On previous race reports I'd read how they caught up to lead packs because of the time they had to spend up front blazing a path for others and this held true. I passed some runners, thankfully had a veteran point out a turn I most certainly would have missed, and ignored the multitude of false summits I expected to encounter. Usually this climb would have been done in the midst of a hot sun and humidity but because the day was overcast I had a reprieve.... more on that to come later.

As I reached the final portion I had managed to catch up to a pack of runners in front of me and we all emerged onto the road and climbed the fire tower to get our bibs punched to signify our success. Unfortunately the entire area was covered in fog so there was no view to enjoy but maybe next time. I was scratched and bloodied but psyched to know I had made it up without too much difficulty.

This is where it got interesting and it started to rain.

On a normal run whether it be on roads or trails the rain represents more of an inconvenience than anything. Clothes and shoes get wet but if it's warm it can actually be refreshing. At Barkley rain meant a new element had entered to increase the degree of difficulty - mudslides. The rain was pretty heavy with thunder and some lightning and as I started my descent down Testicle Spectacle it became obvious that sliding on my butt was going to be the best way down some of the insanely steep pitches. It was basically controlled chaos as I would slide down to the next flatish part, gather myself, negotiate some precarious sections, and slide again. As I got close to the turnaround the new element of two way traffic entered the picture and the lead runners passed me going back up. This brought in the reality that I was going to have to go back up the sloppy mess that I had just gone down, in the rain, while other runners came down. Blazing a new path was probably more difficult and the rule is that you have to follow the exposed power line so ducking into the woods and using easier terrain is a DQ as well as just completely contrary to the Barkley experience.

I later learned that the elite front pack (some of them veterans and past winners) missed the turn onto a path for the turnaround and actually spent around an hour off course before finding their way back. This speaks to the difficulty of navigation if you're in the front since it's off trail and unmarked no matter how many times you've been here. There was a few times even following the path of previous runners I had to take a moment to orient myself or give my best guess as to where to go. I was lucky that some runners were emerging from the path in the opposite direction as I came down so I didn't have that problem and emerged from the woods at the turnaround for a quick refuel before my return journey.

Going back up was about as hard as anything I've done in a race. It required constant problem solving, using both upper body and legs to keep moving, and just pure determination. There were times I was terrified I would slip all the way back down to the bottom of a section which would have just been demoralizing but I luckily figured out how to keep moving forward. At one point I grabbed this tiny bush that somehow could support my weight, another time I randomly found a tree root I could use to go hand over hand and pull myself up. I dove into middle sections with patches of grass that I figured had some traction. Constant, relentless, forward progress. The looks on the faces of runners coming down was priceless and despite the misery it was actually a blast. The focus on the task made me forget if I was tired or my legs hurt, it was just total immersion in getting to the top. At one point I looked up and saw the famed view of Testicle Spectacle in front of me, just a steep wall with a path of mud and muck that I had to climb and couldn't help but do the sign of the cross for good luck. I am not a religious person but it felt right. Reaching the top I took a moment to gather myself before crossing over to Meth Lab Hill (all these names make more sense if you know about Barkley) and the descent down the opposite side towards Bushy Mountain State Prison (now a tourist attraction and not an actual Prison).

More mudslides, more guessing the route as best I could, one wrong turn with about 10 minutes of bonus mileage, and eventually found myself climbing a ladder to go up and over the prison wall to the opposite side so I could have the privilege of going up both Big Rat and Rat Jaw. I was having a hard time mentally getting into a good headspace after what I'd just done and I took a minute to attempt and get myself ready but that failed as well so I just dove back into the briars and started back up because sometimes there's nothing you can do but take the first step.

The good news was that because of the people behind me and in front of me already doing hundreds up trips up the path was much cleaner and easier to avoid briars. The bad news was the rain had added additional mudslides into the equation. I passed multiple people on their way back down rather than attempt and finish the climb. I caught up to and passed other runners on both their first and second trip up which was encouraging (including Brenda who was having an incredible run and had been in front of me the whole way up to that point). I shared conversation with other runners and just kept moving, with at least the knowledge of landmarks this time to mark progress. I again went hand over hand, pulling myself up in sections, and crawling in others until eventually I was at the top again and somehow miraculously I felt better at the top than I had at the bottom.

Rat Jaw effect

Completely energized and feeling as fresh as I had at the beginning, I flew down the trail towards decision point passing multiple other runners on their walk of shame after timing out or quitting. It was an amazing feeling to take everything that could be thrown at me and not only overcome it but be ready for more. I'd been on point in my pace, kept my nutrition in line, and mentally felt strong with plenty of time to finish a "50k" and call myself a Pelican instead of a Pelicant as Laz likes to say. Laz himself was waiting to punch my bib at decision point and I told him the rain was a nice touch before turning up the road towards the last climb and section.

As always there are tons of ups and downs with any ultra and as good as I'd felt before, I felt my energy and enthusiasm wane as I went up the final long climb. Thinking back I think it's that once I knew the finish was within grasp I relaxed some and actually started thinking about distance and finish instead of staying in the moment. I can remember thinking "here I am doing another climb with switchback after switchback" since it reminded me of the big final climb on Twisted Branch. I was actually surprised to find myself getting passed by a few runners who just power hiked right by me - definitely need to work on picking up my power hiking speed. Finally reaching the top I pushed myself to run as much of the flats and slight inclines before the last downhill hit and I cruised down and to the finish line with a time of 10:32 in 27th place overall. Brenda ended up just behind me in 10:38, 32nd overall and 4th female. Estimates by other runners that mapped it out are that the course ended up being about 40 miles with 13,000 feet of gain... give or take.

Overall the race was everything I had hoped it would be and the most fun I've had in a race to date. Part of that is knowing the history and being at locations I'd been hearing about for years, but a lot of that was also having challenges and adversity thrown at me and overcoming it to keep pushing towards the finish. The map will be a cherished keepsake and I met some of the best and most encouraging, supportive runners that I have to date. A big thank you to all the volunteers and crew out there helping along the way and I look forward to future Barkley adventures.

After close to 500 miles Barkley is their forever home